Trap Mods ( Best Practise)

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Henry Arthur Readford
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This thread could also be considered as Trap Preparations but I thought MODS (best Practise) may be more inline with the actual task and reasons.

Traps like most things can be improved to make them better, some need more work than others. The reasons I MOD my traps are for the following reasons:
1. to strengthen.
2. more humane.
3. to improve. (make good traps great or to make cheap traps better than expected)

Firstly I will show some dog trap MODs that are quick and easy, These are great traps out of the box but a simple improvement to the chain makes a great difference to it and all 3 above reasons are there in one way or another.
View attachment 18290 This is the MOD carried out on the below traps, cost $10 it gives a total of 3 adding 2 swivels and shock spring and a double stake ring
View attachment 18293View attachment 18294View attachment 18295

below is a Jake trap nothing needs MODS
View attachment 18292

Next I will show how I modify a DUKE #1.5 making a cheap trap a good trap worth owning.
 

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Henry Arthur Readford
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Please Note I need to get pics of the finished welded product I forgot to take any.

Ok now for a big MOD . Now these traps are for rabbits they will hold a fox but without mods they can get twisted and wrecked quickly. As is great little rabbit traps but as traps are not target specific damage by larger animals can /will occur. Again I talk from my own experiences with any mods I make , remember you must weigh up the costs of traps and MODs when choosing for yourself .
View attachment 18296View attachment 18297
Above is the top and base view of the DUKE #1.5,.
I find the traps good for rabbits but needs improvements for fox. Firstly dump the chain altogether. Bead weld the cross base plate, then add a mild steel base with centre D ring. Add a new chain assembly include a spring , swivels and stake ring. Even though I have added heavy duty swivels and stake ring they will out live the trap and then could be used as spares again, the reason I went this way is they cost the same as lighter stuff here in Oz. Other points to look at is the Pan screw relace with longer one and add lock (nylon)nut, Bead weld tips of jaws
View attachment 18298View attachment 18299
First pic shows what was needed to be add for strengthening and increase durability. By adding the centre swivelling chain allows freedom without tangle. also note I only added a small spring to the line just to take initial blow from a fox. Other things pan levelling is required and I also add a two step latch to the dogs.
These traps needed be cleaned before welding as they were waxed, So they need to be re done when I do the others
I will add more pics and info if questions are asked
 
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JM9422

Lofty Wiseman
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I have the same chain set up that you have with your 1.5's but I always get some trap wobble when I bed them in dirt, I think it's because there's only 3 chain links (with spring) between the swivels, and the chain links are so long.
The chains on your dog traps look like they'd be easier to settle below the trap. I have the D ring and bases, but I'm yet to weld them, thinking I might get the chains changed first.

How do you find using the 3 chain links in bedding the trap?
 

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Henry Arthur Readford
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Hi yes the chain setup on the dog traps are friendlier , The small rabbit trap set up is easier with the centre base attachment for setting a longer chain would be a good. It is a preference I suppose the chain set up basically is from a Victor trap with extra swivels, NZérs use these traps for another game and from what I see it works for a larger and more aggressive game.
Please note I don't target the species that our NZ friends do it is legal trap them there , NOT HERE
 
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