Here's the method I use to sharpen my knives using sharpening stones.
As a disclaimer, I am by no means an expert sharpener, but the forum doesn't currently have a sharpening demonstration by a member. If any of our amazing knife makers would like to put one together, I'll make it a sticky.
My techniques might be considered incorrect, but I'm always happy to learn. Feel free to share your own techniques and experiences.
What type of stone?
I use water stones, which require water when used and oil stones which (as the name might suggest) require oil on their surface during use. Other types such as diamond stones don't require any liquid. As a kid, I didn't use liquid with my stones and they became clogged with the metal being sharpened. I've used bicarb soda and steel wool to clean my stones in the past.
Does it need the stone?
In the following drawing there are three types of edges.
(from left to right)
1.) a knife whose edge hasn't worn away, but has folded over, or deformed. This edge doesn't need working on a sharpening stone, it just needs a strop, or realigning on a steel or crock stick.
2.) a knife whose edge has worn away, leaving a flat spot. This edge does need working on a sharpening stone.
3.) a knife whose edge has been sharpened on a stone, or whose edge has been realigned. This one is good to go.
Sharpening a scandi grind on a stone
A scandi grind is easy to sharpen as you can feel the large face of the bevel "lock" into place on the stone.
Once the bevel is flush with the stone, I push it over the surface of the stone, from the start of the edge to the tip.
I sharpen my knives with the edge leading, rather than trailing, as this will require less work later on with removing the burr.
This drawing shows a dull edge being worked on one side until a burr forms.
Some people like to swap sides every X number of strokes, but I work one side until I can feel a burr form. I test to feel for a burr by running my thumb across (not along the length of edge) the blade.
I then swap to the other side until I feel a burr form.
Note: if the edge was very very dull, I would probably alternate strokes, so as not to end up with an edge that was uneven.
Once I have worked both sides, I then alternate from one side to the other with each stroke, going lighter and lighter in pressure.
Sharpening a knife with a secondary bevel
A knife such as a swiss army knife, or a kitchen knife has a secondary bevel and is more difficult (for me) to sharpen than scandi grind knives.
The reason is that I can't feel the bevel lock against the stone in the same way I can with a scandi. I use a different technique to make sure the smaller bevel is flush against the stone.
As the following diagram shows, I lie the blade flush against the stone.
Notice the gap formed between the bevel and the stone.
I then tilt the spine of the knife up until I see the gap disappear.
I'm aiming for around a 20 degree angle here (it's not exact in the diagram).
(If it's easier, think of a 90 degree, cut it in half to get 45 degrees. cut that in half to get 22.5 degrees, which is close enough for me).
Once I have this angle, holding the knife in my right hand, I place the thumb of my left hand against the spine of the knife and the stone. This helps me maintain that angle as I sharpen.
I then use the same sharpening technique for the formation of a burr as listed for the scandi grind.
Removing the burr
If the burr isn't removed, it can tear off quickly and leave you with a dull knife. It can be removed by:
Adding a micro bevel http://bushcraftoz.com/forums/showth...el-on-a-scandi